Frozen on the Train

I woke up later to find myself very cold, and everyone else feeling the same - frost quite thick on the windows. I discarded my coat as a pillow and used it as a blanket instead and managed to sleep a bit longer.

Very soon, it seemed it was getting light. To my surprise, there was very thick ice on the inside of the windows. I have never been so icy cold before, but it was the same for all. Everyone shivered and looked blue. There was no heating whatsoever - at least it was quite ineffective. About seven, we stopped at Nuremberg. It was a pity that the view was blocked. For the next few hours everyone was occupied scraping and "hurring" on the glass to melt the ice and make themselves a peep-hole.

I went to the "wash room" to clean up the traces of travel. Not a drop of water was to be had. Everything was frozen; even the floor had a thick covering of ice and at each lurch of the train, you were shot violently backwards and forwards.

I ate a roll or two, secured some coffee, donned both coats, gloves and felt better. When the heat was actually put on, it really was stifling. The ice on the windows melted and streamed down as water, making the pane very smeary but easier to see through. During the morning we passed through snow covered country. At Passau - formerly on the Austrian frontier, difference in appearance of the houses - low roofs, very bright and gay looking above the snow.

After Linz the snow thinned out. Broad flat valley - somewhat barren - farmed - wooded hills. At first I was disappointed in the approach. Getting nearer Wien (edit: this is the German name for Vienna) however, things improved - more hilly, trees and generally picturesque countryside.

You may imagine what a relief it was to step out onto the platform into beautiful fresh air after 29 hours of travel. And very good to get to a nice house and have a good wash.