Showing posts with label vienna. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vienna. Show all posts

Saturday, March 04, 2006

Map of Wachau circa 1939



Back Part One
Back Part Two
Front Part One
Front Part Two

May 27 - 29 [part 2]

14pf brought me to Frauzjosefybahn [sp?]. There was still much time to spare before my companions should arrive. What should I do. I spent some minutes walking along one line of steps in front of the Bahnhof and back to the same place by means of a lower or higher line. But that was a childish game (though warming, the morning air being cool, a fresh wind blowing) and soon I had to stop on account of the flocks of it) and B.P.N. which steadily increased and waiting before the station. Each party arrived singing.

Was brought smartly to a standstill, when rucksacks were set down, and macs and coats downed over dirndls; or uniforms as the case may be, and the flocks set loose until it was time to gather again. I found a letter in my pocket, which I had not posted the previous day, and sought out a Tabak traffik, but no stamps were to be had

The station, though small, was complete with P.O. - good. I could surely get a stamp there. Anyway, there would be something to see. A sleepy dame, hair protected with a whitish kerchief, sweeping the floor. "Ich mochte gern eine Brief wache, bitte". But oh dear; Briefmarke sind wicht fur eine halbe staede zu werkaufen. . I bought a map of the Wachau* for 40pf and continued early morning exercises while more people arrived. The time passed quickly. I bought my stamp and came out again to stand in front of the station. Soon appeared a familiar bright and cheery face, full of friendliness and behind a large bulging rucksack (mine was twice it's size but had about a quarter the contents!) - Marta.

We had actually met only the day before, but were to be good friends on the three days, most pleasantly successful and delightful - the dearest of companions. I will always have a fond rememberence of this time, of the beautiful landscape through which we saw, and the many beautiful and interesting Donantal villages and especially of my 3 dear friends Otto Koellner, Herbert Klausner and Marta.

But I am wandering.

[*Which was left with the diary, and I'll include in a separate post above.]

Saturday, January 14, 2006

May 27 - 29 [part 1]

Early in the small hours of the morning on May 27, the day before Whitsun, I was rudely stirred (at my own request) and told to get up. It was however, an hour too early, ie: half 5, but there was no point in dozing again. My rucksack stood ready, hiking shoes, sport skirt, everything! Cool morning air came through the open windows.

It had rained, the still damp streets were void of life at this early hour. The sky was grey and rainlike, but the air fresh and good for hiking. My two bed companions had left the day before. I got up at leisure, put my bed in order, saddled up and went to the kitche, where I found coffee + bread + a packet of food waiting for me. I gulped down the coffee; put my food packet into the pocket of my rucksack, took the bread with me to eat on the way to the Strassenbahn [edit: streetcar].

The front door was still shut, and I had to disturb the goodnatured caretaker to open it for me, which she did cheerfully and wished me gute reise [edit: good travels]. It was still much too early. Time had I enough. I took my way slowly towards the Haltestelle. All was shut up and sleepy looking, and as yet few Trams were running. I spoke with a newspaper vendor, who waited hopefully in the vicinity of the Haltestelle. But no, I would have nothing to do with newspapers. I was going off to enjoy myself, to forget the sorrow of the world, into the nature, away from large towns and civilised life.

Soon arrived large parties of H.J. und B.O.M. [edit: ?] and smaller family parties and individual lisben [edit: ?], all in the same holiday spirit, complete with rucksacks and raincoats, against the "pfupt wetter".

At last a strassenbahn.

Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Thurs. 25. May

I woke refreshed and overjoyed to find the sun beaming out of a blue sky. It was, however, windy and by no means warm. I sprang joyfully to the cold tap in the bathroom. My room companions had already an hour previously departed and as a great pleasure I was allowed to Frühstück [edit: breakfast] in the kitchen, which is somehow more homely than the large empty dining hall. It was already half past 10 and I hastened up to the Uni for my German lesson.

We learnt to begin with Idiomatische phrases, and afterwards dictation... a hasty visit to the StudentenKlub... then home to a good dinner - oh joy, asparagus soup - meat patties, lettuce and potatoes, and afterwards a Mehlspeise. The afternoon was spent in making the last Aufachmen [edit: ?] in the phonogram archive and afterwards in a Buchwei (secondhand books) and bought a much longed for knust geschichte and Willhelmmeisters Lehrjahre from Goethe for 2 RM.

After abendessen, which consisted of eggrice (?) (scrambled egg and rice and lettuce), I settled down in my favourite corner (the white writing room, but the white schriebtisch). Well, well, time goes. I must write no more here, but to my dear mother. Tomorrow, give us a schionen tag, for swimming I will go.

Tuesday, December 27, 2005

Resembling Chinese But Speaking English

A brisk walk in the clean, fresh, rainwashed air. I discovered the Nianabad [edit: not sure if this is correct], but it had already got late and I decided to set down to a hit of work and wait until I had bought cheap tickets from the Studentenklub. The afternoon was spent from 2 in conversation, from 4-6 in the Germankuns [edit: ?] We learnt busily grammar, and afterwards read and finished the first chapter from Bindiupes, Unversauslide, Evinnarmy. [edit: no idea whether any of these are correct].

After going home and eating a good supper, changed, washed and back up to the Klub. The next few hours from 9pm - 2am were spent in the raucous atmosphere. There was dancing, a theaterpiece and more dancing, beer drinking to which Dora and I were unwilling required by our friend to imbibe, but being thirsty it did not matter.

There were more people in the club than I have ever seen and many were strange faces; in one corner sat three men from America. But each as different from one another as it is possible to differ. One came from South America, dark - black hair, dark skin, brown eyes, diffrent from the Spanish Paraguayans. Another from North America, fair and English looking and speaking English. The third, a Hawaiian, resembling Chinese but speaking English. There were a party of Bulgarians, a jolly crowd. But after a time, the noise because unpleasant; the jollity of the earlier part of the evening returned towards 2am where the room began to clear and there was place to dance, but such music - blaring jazz from a dreadful resounding loud speaker.

Arriving home about 2:15, I had, to my shame and displeasure, arouse the portier from her sweet and pleasant dreams (or perhaps they weren't - judging by her expression) and it cost me 50pf into the bargain. However, I gave it gladly. Then came a few minutes fumbling in the dark and then - sleep.

24. Mai

Ah, cold water is good on a sunny morning. God be thanked the weather is clearing up and at the weekend - wir fahren in die Wachau (?) [edit: we drive into the Wachau]. I think I shall never be able to rise at half 7. My room companions were already dressed as I woke up. I had indeed heard the stirring call of Frau Dr. Schmidt, but went promptly to sleep again. I came down half an hour later. The rooms were being turned out and I joyfully breakfasted on bread and coffee in the kitchen. How the sun shines - and the sky is blue. I have written a letter and will hasten forth and test the heat of the air. Perhaps it will not be too cold for a much longed for swim... (9.5 Uhr) [edit: half past 9]

Locked Out

The rain poured steadily down in sheets - I ran along the other side and reached cover, and as the rain eased a little, hurried the rest of the way home. Home. A jolly home.

Mina was in the kitchen and had saved me a good supper - a hot wurst und bratkartoffeln.

I went up to bed. Unfortunately, no key was to be found. For 10 minutes, I and another girl were apparently locked out. We knocked and rang and at least some kind person let us in.

Saturday, December 03, 2005

Damned Be The Jazz

23. Mai. 39

Life flows steadily on. Rain pours heavily, increasingly downwards. Chilly and unlike summer, I spend the morning in the charming little writing room, next to the music room. It is peaceful and pleasant, as the children are all at school. I write up my diary, learn a poem from Goethe. Soon after one, the house begins to stir up a bit, the children are home, and at half 2, we ate lunch. The food is very good. Soup, a meat course with what obtainable vegetables are to be bought, and afterwards a nachtisch [edit: dessert]. Today we had thick soup ... of beans. Afterwards came fish with sauce and potatoes - and to end up with, we had mehlspeise with cream and sugar.

Soon after lunch I rallied forth. It was not attractive outside - and I went into a shop + bought the ever needed Briefpapier for 1.25M, some postcards showing some views of the I-District, in which many delightful corners are to be found; old winding narrow streets and crooked steps running and climbing between the houses; and such poor poor people did I see eating some obnoxious stuff with their fingers out of tins.

Soon after 4 I went into the club, as I had promised to meet Dora there that we might go together to the Hungarian Tanzabend (which actually began at 8pm and would possibly continue until 5 the next morning) however, left at 9. Dora was not there; but after waiting sometime we met and collected a party. We were together 2 Bulgarian girls, 2 men, 1 Hungarian and myself. And how they dance, and the ... music and the songs. So heartrending - real musik. Damned be the jazz blaring from records in the next room. We danced wild Hungarian dances and I danced too for all I was worth. But such dances are not for the large feet of the English.

We danced Wiener waltz to gramaphone records, foxtrot and all. We drank wine and ate sandwiches (rolls cut in half, with tasty bits - eggs, fish, cheese, garlic etc laid on them). By nine however, I was satisfied that I had seen and learnt enough, I left the party to continue it's wild musik. They are a different people, the Bulgarians/Hungarians. Romantik, hardworking, with charming natural manners. The women are small, with small hands and feet, large eyes and long laughs, often very attractive. The men equally attractive, thought taller than the women. I left feeling I had certainly learnt something.

Thursday, November 03, 2005

Life is very full

Another person who interests me is a small, though very grown up, personage of 7 yrs of age. She comes from the 10th division, a very poor quarter. She attends the Volksschule. She speaks in a very rude manner + it is also a bad ausspreche. She is altogether too old for her age. Indeed she has apparently lived too much with older people. She has a peculiar feeling against her mother, but is devoted to her Grandmother who has adopted her + I should think generally spoiled her. She seems to be quite intelligent. Having an interest in this being, I spoke with the Fran Nireklos [edit: sp?] about her; + I asked what she did at school, and was surprised to find she did very badly.

Well, life is very full; since 8 I have sat + written in the hopes of a clearing in the weather, that I might go for a swim. But it still rains (12 noon) & is chilly & not altering. Now I think a little of my mother and my other good friends. Shall I go to [edit - garbled] or not? I must find out about this Sprach Kuner [edit - sp?] + I must learn a little, read a little.

Dora

10. Frau___ ? arrived with a mysterious letter form & stamped with the sign of the Weimer [edit - garbled German that I can't translate without help].

This morning, Dora telephoned to me. She too had had an invitation + we shall go together. Dora is my good Bulgarian friend. Our friendship grows very strong + I don't think it will ever be broken. What a joy is such an understanding between two people. We have decided to travel round the world together - to do many things together - always to stand by one another.

Tuesday, October 25, 2005

Jews

Dienstag .23

A strange person, who has experienced too much for her years. The education in Austria seems to have improved. This girl, Ulina, had apparently a poor educations + is of a poor family, left school at 16, + worked 6 years in England. Has a strong grudge against the Jews, on whose account she left Austria; she reads the Stürmer from one end to the other daily and I wonder she doesn't become mad. She longs to return to England, where she had many posts good + bad, + where she received good pay. Unfortunately, under the present economical conditions it is not an easy thing for her.

(It is well known that many Austrians were previously employed in England, now they have been called back to Austria to live under the new Regime.)

She hates the Austrian food. I sympathise. Just now it is very bad. Clean + eatable, but so little fruit + everyone has the right to complain. She told me a most peculiar story (of which I remember little) concerning a family who employed her in Scotland. Apparently they were Spiritualists + behaved most peculiarly - especially on Monday + Tuesday when they dressed in special blue clothes + had the sitting room also furnished in blue + hung the blue curtains. The husband had particularly impressed her by wearing a garment similar to that worn on certain occasions by Jews.

She was indeed convinced that he was a Jew. I wonder. Her mind seems to be quite corrupted from her misfortune in having to leave England + from hatred of the Jews. The conversation took place in the kitchen + lasted until half 10. By this time I thought of my washing and letters which I had not attended to + as we were already on good terms I was allowed to wash in the kitchen + hang my things up in the bathroom.

Wednesday, October 19, 2005

Not Severed

The first day - Sunday; most of the children, on account of it being Muttertag, had gone home. I went into the Bury Kappelle (church) and peace was restored to my soul. Peace surfed, wafted and settled within me. I came back, along the wet, shining streets a new person. In the afternoon Dela telephoned + I knew our friendship was not severed.

Life here is well ordered. Breakfast, 7. Mittagessen 2:30. Abendessen 7.

Yesterday I betook myself off at 8 in the morning in the rain to explore the new district, it is near the Kai, the oldest part of town, with many narrow alleys + steps twisting round corners between the houses from one level to a higher one. There I found a quaint wee cjircj lmpwm as Ruprechbehurch - the oldest in Wier, older even than the Stephausdom, a nearby onlooker informed me. I bought a repecimemtel (edit - sp?) + a real leather tasche + came joyful home at 11:30 + settled down in the charmingly though simply furnished waiting room.

After dinner, I went up to the Klub, but not meeting anyone in particular, went straight to the Kus. As usual I was too early, but it didn't matter as I was able to learn a poem - the Konig in Thule from Goette which was set as homework.

Sunday, October 16, 2005

Mus

Mus is a home for school children. There are fifteen children here of all ages up to 17. They attend various schools, Volksschule, Mittelschule, Hochschule and Handelschule. There is also a Danish girl here. The children are watched over by an Erzieherin, an excellent person. I sleep in a room with 2 German girls who attend Handelschule. As yet, we don't know each other very well, as they are always in bed before I am & in the morning they have lessons and must leave early.

I am very contented with everything, only one thing disturbs me, that is, I must always go through the children's room at night to get to my bed; the door has an unpleasant habit of sticking. One pushes + heaves + it bursts open with a shattering bang + wakes up the whole house. Then I must grope about in the dark and there is sure to be something in the way to fall over. Lastly, concerns my bedroom slippers; unfortunately they also have an unpleasant habit of getting at the back of my cupboard where I don't easily find them + must go sometimes barefooted on the cold stone floor of the bathrooms. The result is one side of me is cold + the other warm in bed.

"Freedom, Freedom is the best of life"

On Saturday afternoon I arrived in a taxi at the Schulerheim with my 2 suitcases, one rather dilapidated, the other less so. It was a fearless farewell, and I am glad, glad, the affair is over, and I know now it was right to come here; after much doubt it was right, and I am happy + god be thanked I still have my friends in the HorianigaBe. But freedom, freedom, is the best of life. I love this life of freedom (My English is somewhat corrupt owing to the influence of the German language), but I live, I live.

Was mene Leben (May 20th 1939)

On Saturday the 20th of May, das mene Leben (edit: sp?) began. I call it the new life for so it was for me after several weeks of inner disturbance and restlessness of soul. My surroundings were changed from the life in a German family to that of a German Schulerheim. How this happened? It was entirely my doing - after sleepless nights and many unhappy hours, I made the decision. But that was a sad story and better to be forgotten. Now everything is peace again and life flows, bringing with it many new interests.

On Friday I spent the loneliest day + I think that the unhappiest of my life alone at home, in the HorianigaBe at home, though no longer at home. There was little left for me to eat, and I longed for some fruit and searched up, down to find a fruit shop. Nothing, nothing at all but figs + dates + O joy, lemons. I bought some, and with the addition of sugar, made me a fruit salad. This made a good meal with a first course of bread and cheese!

In the morning, I had dealt with the police and the post office etc - i.e. I had announced my intention to change my address. I bought flowers and decorated the rooms. In the afternoon I packed, and then waited the return of the family. I could not work. It was hot and I was restless for the next day.

Feb 4th 1939

Sleep late. Eat breakfast, write and generally settle in. After lunch am taken by Dr. Schimak to see a bit of Wien.

  • i. A wide-spread out city, wide streets and large well built houses
  • ii. Poverty and primitiveness still in existence.
  • iii. Beggars.
  • iv. Not the smart, gay Wien of old.
  • v. Very few people about.
General Impression Town, people, surrounding; outstanding buildings.

The University, Ice Rink.
Professor Trojan's evening - Faschingszug (edit: "Carnival course"?) - picture.

(edit - my grandmother made a note at the foot of this part, saying "The diary seems to peter out somewhat at this point - I will have to resort to memorising and hope for the best." There are no other pages from this part of her visit, and she did not add to the typed page from this point on. What will follow are diary entries that never made it to her second draft.)

Frozen on the Train

I woke up later to find myself very cold, and everyone else feeling the same - frost quite thick on the windows. I discarded my coat as a pillow and used it as a blanket instead and managed to sleep a bit longer.

Very soon, it seemed it was getting light. To my surprise, there was very thick ice on the inside of the windows. I have never been so icy cold before, but it was the same for all. Everyone shivered and looked blue. There was no heating whatsoever - at least it was quite ineffective. About seven, we stopped at Nuremberg. It was a pity that the view was blocked. For the next few hours everyone was occupied scraping and "hurring" on the glass to melt the ice and make themselves a peep-hole.

I went to the "wash room" to clean up the traces of travel. Not a drop of water was to be had. Everything was frozen; even the floor had a thick covering of ice and at each lurch of the train, you were shot violently backwards and forwards.

I ate a roll or two, secured some coffee, donned both coats, gloves and felt better. When the heat was actually put on, it really was stifling. The ice on the windows melted and streamed down as water, making the pane very smeary but easier to see through. During the morning we passed through snow covered country. At Passau - formerly on the Austrian frontier, difference in appearance of the houses - low roofs, very bright and gay looking above the snow.

After Linz the snow thinned out. Broad flat valley - somewhat barren - farmed - wooded hills. At first I was disappointed in the approach. Getting nearer Wien (edit: this is the German name for Vienna) however, things improved - more hilly, trees and generally picturesque countryside.

You may imagine what a relief it was to step out onto the platform into beautiful fresh air after 29 hours of travel. And very good to get to a nice house and have a good wash.

Saturday, October 15, 2005

The Beginning

It was a great event when, on the 7th of Feb 1939, I left home to stay with some friends in Vienna, where I was to learn the language and, mainly to satisfy my own curiosity, to study the people and their manner of living.

I arrived in the middle of their afternoon, and my friends were there to meet me. At first it was quite bewildering standing on the simple countrified platform of this great city, and drinking in the fresh smokeless air, for it is no pleasure to sit eighteen hours on a hard wooden seat with all ventilation shut off.

On the whole, it was a very comfortable and interesting journey; especially as I, unexpectantly, was accompanied by a friend of mine. She was going to Switzerland for three weeks skiing, so that we travelled together as far as Koln, where she was to change into another train for Bale.

(Incidentally, I heard later she had the misfortune to fall the first day on the ice and break her elbow, which put a sad end to a lovely holiday.)